The Food Issue
kendall ford | Dec. 7, 2022 | Features
Food and identity
Many Stanton College Preparatory School students consider food to be an important aspect of their cultural identity. From cooking styles and ingredients used, to types of dishes prepared, cuisine can be a direct homage to a student’s heritage. Across the cafeteria and courtyards, lunchboxes are typically filled with homemade foods that provide insight into a student’s life.
The initial introduction of many students to their culture starts at home with the passing down of traditions from parent to child being facilitated through food knowledge. For some students, their best memories are the ones spent in the kitchen cooking with and learning from their families through food.
“A couple years ago I was in my great grandmother's house, and she made me this meal called pollo guisado,” said junior Ariana Williams. “She only made it for me, and she gave my mom the recipe.” Williams later added that she would eventually get that recipe from her own mother.
Being Puerto Rican, Williams, like many other students, experiences the sharing of knowledge through food firsthand. For certain families, traditional foods can become a family treasure that can serve to pay homage to their identity. Through this, these foods can gain a deeper meaning for students. In Williams' case, the food became connected with memories of her grandmother. Because of the importance of these ethnically representative dishes, some culinary traditions can become intertwined with holidays and celebrations.
“Our Soup Joumou, which is pumpkin soup, we make that every year to celebrate our New Years with our favorite food,” said senior Rodangenica Jeanniton, who is of Haitian descent. "My grandma always starts making it Dec. 31 and if it is ready by then, we all gather as a family and eat it as the clock turns midnight and start the new year together.”
Food allows Jeanniton and countless other students to keep their traditions alive while fostering bonds with each other and their culture. Often tied to holidays and other special occasions, these ethnic dishes can keep traditions alive through the habituality of these events. The invaluable time some students get to spend learning from their family through culinary traditions can help develop their cultural identity. Cultural expression through food is not limited to the home though, many students bring ethnically representative foods to lunch.
“Stanton is so diverse. Getting to try different foods from different people plays into the family that we have here,” said junior Courtney Brown. “People have not tried things from each and every culture so [students] kind of bring that part of themselves here for all of us to try which connects us more.”
For Brown, outside of connecting with their family and Caribbean culture, food connects them to their peers. The individual diversity of each culture represented within the student body can be conveyed through these lunchroom interactions. Students can bring food to share while also receiving new food from others. This sharing of food allows some students to get to know each other on a deeper level and build connections with others they may not have had previously.
“I have a lot of Indian friends, so we get a lot of the same types of foods, so it is really cool to talk to each other about the food,” said sophomore Siddhant Jain.
Jain can not only increase his connection to his own culture, but could further develop his connection with peers that share a common identity. Seeing familiar dishes can foster a love of ethnic foods. Though Jain and other students have positive experiences bringing food to school that allow them to connect with their peers, some students have different experiences.
“The first few times I brought (traditional food) they judged me. They would not sit with me during lunch,” said freshman Pranathi Kalkura. “Eventually that changed and people just got used to it and did not really care that much that I have a different culture and do not eat the same foods that other people do.”
In Kalkura’s experience, sharing culturally representative food did not always elicit a positive reaction. Instead of fostering a sense of community, they experienced possible social alienation. Because of the uniqueness of the traditional foods she brought, some students criticized the food and by extension, her culture. For some students, cultural food can provide a means to strengthen community connections, but for others, it can lead to cultural estrangement. Though Kalkura’s initial experience bringing ethnically representative foods to school was negative, she also signaled a hope for some students that over time people begin to accept these unique foods.
Though not always accepted by others, food permeates the lives of all people and for many Stanton students, traditional cuisines can serve important purposes in some students' lives. Traditions and knowledge infused into ethnically representative foods can allow some students to develop their cultural identity while also providing the opportunity to forge connections with their history and those around them.
shravya nalla | Dec. 7, 2022 | Features
a menu for all
As dietary restrictions become more prevalent, food establishments are beginning to make meals that are inclusive of all dietary needs. Some of the most common changes to these diets include avoiding meat, animal products, lactose, or gluten. Restaurants across the nation are considering those with dietary restrictions when creating their menu. However, there are still numerous places failing to include meals that acknowledge these limitations, specifically at school. The inconsistency between what is offered and restricted diets often limits students from eating school lunch.
Stanton College Preparatory School includes a diverse group of students with restricted diets. According to a poll conducted in October 2022 by the Devil’s Advocate, 24% of students have dietary restrictions. At school, these students face limited meal options and have to find alternatives to school lunch, such as a home-cooked meal. Yet some students lack other options and have to buy school lunches.
“Since I am gluten-free and lactose intolerant, it is really hard to find certain meals in the cafeteria,” said freshman Natasha Searl. “One item will be gluten-free but it will have cheese on it, so I will not be able to eat it. This forces me not to eat lunch or have to make lunch for myself.”
Stanton students with restricted diets are often faced with a situation similar to that of Searl. Sophomore Ritvvika Guleria hopes to witness school lunches becoming more inclusive as she continues to have a hard time finding meals that correspond with her dietary limitations.
“The only meat I can eat is chicken, so sometimes if the menu consists of beef and pork, the only other option I can choose from is vegetarian,” said Guleria.
The high school lunch menu, provided by the Nutrition Service Center which is located in Jacksonville, consists of meals ranging from chicken sandwiches to cheese pizzas. The menu does not include exclusive meals for vegan, lactose intolerant, or gluten-free students. The Nutrition Service Center does produce healthy vegan snacks, such as cupped fruit, but they do not make any vegan entrees. Instead, the entrees consist only of chicken or beef. Although the salads are vegan, they include dairy and wheat toppings such as ranch dressing and croutons, which include lactose and gluten.
“If [a student] is vegan or vegetarian, they do not have many options that do not include meat or dairy,” said freshman Jimia Love, who is lactose intolerant.
In certain scenarios, religion can have an impact on an individual’s diet or food preference. This is a common occurrence at Stanton considering the school’s diversity. As a Muslim, sophomore Tameem Sheikh does not eat meat unless it is ethically killed. He began to realize the lack of inclusivity in school lunches as there are not many options for him to choose from.
“If I want to eat school lunch, my only option would be cheese pizza,” said Sheikh. “Sometimes they do have new options, such as the tomato soup, but then they stopped serving that so now its back to only pizza.”
Despite the non-inclusive meals, Duval County Public Schools are making an attempt to reform school lunches through the Student Choice Program. This program is a survey that gives students the opportunity to vote for new meals based on their food preferences. Students are now given the opportunity to comment on any suggestions they might have for new lunch items.
“Every now and then Stanton does a super lunch where they put [meals] up for the kids, and then they get to vote on their [favorite meal],” said Mildred Merkerson, the manager of Stanton’s kitchen. “If the kids like a specific meal and they vote for it, then we will run it.”
In the survey, three of the four menu items that students can select from consist of meat, mainly chicken. Duval County Public Schools designed the Student Choice Program to make a purposeful change in school lunches. Similarly, Stanton students and faculty members have proposed multiple ways in which the district can make school lunches more inclusive. Freshman Alyssa Hardy feels Duval County Public Schools should find a new provider for school lunches in the hope it will make an impactful change around the school.
“The district should use local and gluten-free providers to make school meals more inclusive,” said Hardy.
Sophomore Esther Oo has a different approach, she believes the district should cook multiple variations of each dish, which will accommodate for the students with fixed diets.
“I think the district should have different versions of each meal,” said Esther Oo. “For example, instead of having only cheese pizza, make it vegan or gluten-free.”
As the manager of Stanton’s kitchen, Merkerson values the opinions of students and their meal preferences. She communicates with her boss, Francisco O’Connell, in regards to the suggestions she hears from Stanton students, this is often through the surveys held online.
“If we come up with an idea that we think is going to work for our school, we submit it to our boss and then they make sure it fits with the school's criteria,” said Merkerson. “If it fits, then they will start to serve those meals.”
There continues to be a global rise in consumers with dietary restrictions and restaurants across the globe are trying to value these customers. Although some students are struggling to find meals that correlate with their food limitations, the district is making an attempt to expand Duval County Public School’s lunch menu through programs aimed at making it more inclusive of all diets and limitations. This choice allows for Stanton students to expand their palate within their limitations. As improvements are being made toward the betterment of our school, students hope to see a huge change in the inclusivity of meals at Stanton.
Grace larson | Dec. 7, 2022 | Features
Just in jax
Throughout its history, Jacksonville’s food industry has been defined by the presence of local restaurants. In more recent years, these businesses have grown in popularity, gaining recognition and support from the public. Students at Stanton College Preparatory School are among those who have contributed to this rise in local commerce. By visiting these locations, students introduce themselves to Jacksonville’s diverse range of flavors. This grants them the opportunity to learn more about the city’s food culture and its impact on the community.
Jacksonville’s authenticity is highlighted in the ways residents choose to convey their cultural beliefs. Each individual has the liberty to express this in their own unique way. According to a United States Census Report conducted in 2020, 11.7% of Jacksonville’s 949,611 residents were born outside of the country. Wishing to highlight their ethnic background, several of these individuals have opened their own restaurants around town. This allows customers to connect with their ethnic community throughout the city.
“[Local restaurants] help people who might not know about [certain cultures] connect through a wider love of food,” said senior Juliana Thint. “With Jacksonville being such a melting pot, [each] restaurant just makes [the city] that much more unique.”
These businesses help enhance their customers' understanding of different cultures. By visiting such restaurants, individuals are exposed to authentic recipes that serve as a reminder of home. This allows them to forge tighter bonds with people who share similar experiences.
“People who have similar backgrounds [visit local restaurants] because it feels more like home,” said sophomore Kirsten Moore.
While Jacksonville is home to various cultural restaurants, it also contains establishments that promote the city’s geographical background. Catering to the city’s location along the Atlantic Ocean, River & Post is a restaurant that offers a variety of seafood. This appeals to those looking for an authentic Jacksonville experience. Similarly, Mesa looks to attract individuals drawn to the city’s southern identity, offering classic American dishes with a South Indian twist. Local businesses have aimed to strengthen their reputation by integrating unique concepts into the culinary field.
The influence of several Jacksonville restaurants has exceeded city limits with the opening of stores in nearby states. This expansion allows them to share their unique recipes with a wider audience, thus furthering their impact on the food industry. One example is the renowned Metro Diner, an authentic Jacksonville restaurant once featured on the Food Network show, “Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives.” Following this appearance, the business opened several shops throughout the United States, gaining enough support to combat competition from chains.
“A local restaurant is [going to] have a local chef creating a menu, [adding] variety and flair to dishes you wouldn’t see at a chain,” said sophomore Jack Wheeler.
This difference in authenticity motivates residents to visit such shops, separating these businesses from the larger corporations they compete against. These original ideas further the image of local restaurants within the community.
“Our cuisine is something that Jacksonville has not seen before with traditional Indian restaurants,” said Brandon George, co-owner of Mesa. “We are just doing something a little bit different, so we are offering something new and exciting for people.”
Regardless of this disparity, advertisements made by these restaurants often reach a smaller audience, thus limiting their impact on the community. These businesses rely on attention from the public to generate the profit they need to remain open.
Despite recent efforts to promote local restaurants, they often make less money than those owned by big companies. This battle between chains and locally-owned businesses has worsened since the spread of the coronavirus. Being in the culinary field, these establishments had to learn to balance food production with modern health regulations, making it more difficult for them to keep pace with chains.
“[Competing with chains] is a challenge, but it is something we have started to adapt to and the little community we have [built at Mesa] is really strong,” said George.
Jacksonville’s food identity is a combination of international and southern concepts that attract various customers. Local restaurants rely on these ideas to strengthen their reputation in the food industry. Despite their recent surge in popularity, the status of local businesses remains threatened by large corporations, prompting residents to question their stability. Regardless, local restaurants have learned to face these hardships, inspiring visitors with authentic cuisine that is not available elsewhere.